Living in Viana do Castelo: A Beautiful Portuguese City, But Would We Want to Live There?

Viana do Castelo is often described as one of the most beautiful cities in northern Portugal, with its historic architecture, attractive waterfront and proximity to the Atlantic coast. It's certainly a place that comes up when people are researching somewhere to live in Portugal, particularly those who would prefer a smaller city rather than the hustle and bustle of Porto or Lisbon. But when Gary and Shelley visited Viana do Castelo on separate occasions, neither of us came away completely convinced that it was somewhere we'd want to call home.

Our experiences were quite different, though, and that's probably the most interesting part of the story. Shelley visited with a friend on a particularly wet and miserable day, while Gary returned on a Saturday, when there was more going on and he had the opportunity to explore parts of the city that Shelley hadn't discovered. He initially came away with a more favourable impression, but by the end of his visit, he could understand some of Shelley's reservations.

And when we started considering the practicalities of actually living there, rather than simply visiting, a few more questions emerged.

First Impressions of Viana do Castelo

Shelley's first visit to Viana do Castelo didn't exactly get off to the best start. She and a friend had left Porto in glorious sunshine, looking forward to exploring somewhere new, but by the time they arrived in Viana do Castelo, the weather had changed completely. It was absolutely pouring with rain, and visibility was so poor that they couldn't even see the waterfront.

This might sound like a small detail, but when you're visiting a town or city for the first time, being able to get your bearings makes an enormous difference. Viana do Castelo's location beside the River Lima, with its harbour and maritime history, is one of the things that makes it distinctive, yet Shelley couldn't see any of it. She didn't even realise quite how close they were to the water because the weather had completely obscured the view.

Unfortunately, things didn't improve much when they started walking around the town. It was remarkably quiet, with very few people around, and a surprising number of the shops were closed. It didn't appear to be an ordinary closing day, and even the shops that were open seemed almost deserted.

Shelley had expected a little more life and activity from a city of this size, somewhere with people browsing the shops, sitting in cafés and going about their daily business. Instead, the streets felt unusually empty, and combined with the miserable weather, it was difficult to get a sense of what made the place appealing.

She also completely missed the shopping centre that Gary subsequently found on his visit, which might well have changed her impression of the shopping facilities. Instead, her experience was limited to the shops around the town centre, many of which were either closed or very quiet.

By the time they left, Shelley could appreciate that Viana do Castelo was probably a lovely place in better weather, but it hadn't given her any particular desire to return, let alone consider living there.

Of course, judging somewhere on a single rainy visit isn't entirely fair, and that's one of the reasons Gary wanted to explore it for himself.

Gary's Visit: A Different Day, A Different Impression

Gary visited Viana do Castelo on a Saturday, when there was more activity around the city, and he was able to see considerably more than Shelley had managed on her visit. He explored the historic centre, discovered the shopping centre and had the opportunity to appreciate some of the city's architecture and surroundings.

There is certainly plenty to admire. Viana do Castelo has an attractive historic centre, traditional Portuguese buildings, pleasant squares and a setting that combines the river, coastline and surrounding hills. The Sanctuary of Santa Luzia, overlooking the city, is one of the area's best-known landmarks, and it's easy to understand why Viana do Castelo has such a positive reputation with visitors.

Gary could see the attraction of the city, particularly its compact centre and the facilities available, but one thing he also noticed was how quiet it felt. Even on a Saturday, with activities taking place, it didn't have quite the level of bustle he might have expected.

For some people, of course, that would be a significant advantage. Not everyone wants busy streets, crowded cafés and lots of activity. If you're looking for a quieter Portuguese city with historic character and access to the coast, Viana do Castelo might be exactly what you're after.

But for us, there's a difference between enjoying peace and quiet and feeling that somewhere is perhaps a little too quiet for the lifestyle we'd like.

By the end of his visit, Gary understood why Shelley hadn't been particularly enthusiastic. Although he'd seen the city in better circumstances and appreciated more of what it had to offer, he also had a few reservations of his own.

Living Near the Coast Doesn't Always Mean Living Near the Beach

One of the things Gary found less appealing was the distance between the city centre and the beaches.

When people imagine living in a coastal Portuguese city, they often picture a lifestyle where they can walk from their home through the town, stop for a coffee and then wander down to the beach. It's an appealing idea, particularly for people relocating to Portugal who want to enjoy the outdoors and spend more time walking.

Viana do Castelo certainly has beautiful beaches nearby, including the popular Praia do Cabedelo, but the main beaches aren't immediately alongside the historic centre. Cabedelo is across the River Lima, and depending on exactly where you live, driving may be a much more practical option than walking.

That distinction mattered to Gary. If living close to the beach is one of your main reasons for choosing a coastal location, it's worth checking how accessible it really is from the neighbourhood you're considering.

There are, of course, residential areas closer to the beaches, and these might be a better choice for people who prioritise coastal activities. But that could also mean compromising on the convenience of living close to the historic centre, shops and other everyday facilities.

It's a good example of why looking at a location on a map doesn't always tell you how it will work in practice. Being in a coastal city and being able to walk easily to the beach from your front door aren't necessarily the same thing.

What About Property Prices and Long-Term Rentals?

Another factor that influenced Shelley's opinion of Viana do Castelo was the property market, particularly when considering whether it offers good value for people relocating to northern Portugal.

Shelley had previously been researching accommodation in the area for a client and was surprised by some of the prices she encountered. In certain cases, comparable apartments were being advertised at prices higher than properties she'd seen in Porto, which wasn't quite what she'd expected from a smaller northern city.

Availability was also disappointing, with relatively few suitable properties to choose from. This made the search more challenging, particularly when trying to balance location, condition, budget and the practical requirements of someone moving from overseas.

That doesn't mean Viana do Castelo is universally more expensive than Porto, because property prices vary enormously depending on the neighbourhood, type of property and individual circumstances. However, Shelley's experience was a useful reminder that smaller cities aren't automatically cheaper, and assumptions about affordability can quickly unravel once you begin looking at actual properties.

For someone considering a move to Viana do Castelo, we'd strongly recommend researching the current housing market before becoming too attached to the idea of living there. The availability of suitable long-term accommodation can be just as important as the atmosphere of the city, especially if you're hoping to rent initially while getting to know the area.

And if you have particular requirements, such as outdoor space, parking, pets or a central location, the number of realistic options may be considerably smaller than you expect.

Would the Weather Be an Issue?

It's impossible to talk about Shelley's experience in Viana do Castelo without mentioning the weather, because it undoubtedly influenced her first impression.

Northern Portugal is generally greener, cooler and wetter than many of the regions farther south, and Viana do Castelo's Atlantic location means that rain and wind are part of the climate. That's not necessarily a disadvantage, particularly for people who find the intense summer heat of inland Portugal uncomfortable, but it does mean that the lifestyle can be quite different from what some people imagine when they decide to move to Portugal.

In Shelley's case, the rain made it difficult to explore and appreciate the city, but the experience also raised a practical question. If you're considering living somewhere permanently, how much does the weather influence what you can comfortably do throughout the year?

A city that looks wonderful on a bright summer afternoon can feel very different on a wet winter morning. That doesn't make it any less attractive as a place to live, but it's worth considering whether the climate suits your expectations, particularly if you enjoy spending a lot of time outdoors.

We always think it's sensible to visit somewhere more than once, ideally at different times of the year, before making a decision about relocating. You learn far more about a place when you experience it outside the most favourable conditions.

What Does Viana do Castelo Offer as a Place to Live?

Despite our reservations, there are plenty of reasons why Viana do Castelo could appeal to someone looking for a home in northern Portugal.

It has the advantages of an established Portuguese city, with shops, restaurants, services and cultural activities, without the scale of somewhere like Porto. The historic centre is relatively compact, the surrounding countryside is beautiful, and the coast offers opportunities for walking, surfing and other outdoor activities.

Its location also makes it convenient for exploring other parts of northern Portugal, including Ponte de Lima, Caminha and Porto, while the Spanish border is within relatively easy reach.

For people who want to integrate into Portuguese life rather than settle in a heavily international community, it could offer an appealing environment, although learning Portuguese would undoubtedly make day-to-day life and social integration easier.

But choosing somewhere to live involves more than checking whether it has the necessary facilities. You also need to think about how you'll spend your time, how easily you'll make friends and whether the atmosphere suits your personality.

A quiet city can feel peaceful and relaxing to one person, while another might find themselves wishing for more activity and variety. Neither reaction is wrong, but it's important to recognise which one is yours before deciding where to settle.

So, Would Gary and Shelley Live in Viana do Castelo?

After two separate visits, our conclusion is that Viana do Castelo is undoubtedly an attractive city, but it probably isn't somewhere we'd choose to live.

Shelley's experience was affected by the terrible weather, the unusually quiet streets and the fact that she didn't get to see some of the city's most attractive features. Gary had a better opportunity to explore and could appreciate more of what Viana do Castelo had to offer, but he also found it quieter than expected and wasn't particularly enthusiastic about the distance between the town centre and the beaches.

When we add in Shelley's experience of researching property in the area, where prices and limited availability presented additional challenges, it becomes harder for us to imagine it as a place we'd personally choose to settle.

That doesn't mean we wouldn't recommend visiting Viana do Castelo, or that it couldn't be a wonderful place to live for someone else. Quite the opposite. We can see why people are attracted to the city, and for someone who enjoys a quieter atmosphere, northern Portugal's climate and access to the coast, it could be an excellent fit.

What our visits reinforced, though, is something we've come to believe quite strongly since moving to Portugal: you can't choose somewhere to live purely on the basis of how beautiful it looks, how popular it is with visitors or how enthusiastically somebody else recommends it.

You need to experience it for yourself, preferably more than once, and try to imagine what an ordinary week would look like rather than just a lovely day out.

Sometimes you immediately feel at home somewhere, and sometimes, despite recognising all its good qualities, you simply know it isn't quite right for you.

For us, Viana do Castelo falls into that second category.

Watch Our Viana do Castelo Video

In our latest Change of Plan video, Gary returns to Viana do Castelo to explore the city for himself after Shelley came away from her visit feeling rather underwhelmed. He discovers some of the things she missed, gets a better look at what the city has to offer and considers whether it would be somewhere we'd genuinely want to live.

If you're researching places to live in northern Portugal, it's worth watching to see Viana do Castelo from another perspective, particularly as our two visits produced rather different experiences.

Watch: Viana do Castelo Is Beautiful… But Could You Live Here?

https://youtu.be/TkQY86ZAylQ?si=Oct2W2QsTU_Fxyu-

And if you know Viana do Castelo, we'd genuinely love to hear your opinion. Have we missed something that makes it a wonderful place to live, or have you had a similar experience? Perhaps you live there already and can tell us what everyday life is really like beyond the historic streets and beautiful coastal scenery.